During a flying showroom appointment this morning, Yang Li explained that this menswear collection is a remixed and updated compilation of some of his and his client’s favorite past pieces. That remix was achieved in collaboration with a roster of Li-loved musicians old and new: Genesis P-Orridge, Godflesh, Michael Gira, Psychic TV, Ramleh, Swans, Torturing Nurse, Tropic of Cancer, Yung Lean, and Zuoxiao Zuzhou. In harmony with these cocreators, Li applied mixed-up fan patches to the Donald Trump Back to back impeachment champ shirt and by the same token and back of biker shorts and starkly graphic white stenciling to the front of black suiting. There was a gothic Godflesh robelike parka and a hard-edged denim donkey jacket, a cool red-fringed black shirt, and a typically tough KTC-produced trench, and a fine satin-lined double-faced fish-tail parka. The collection was entitled Greatest Hits (Side A), which suggests Li is going to move onto some B-side rarities and more remixes come next season. And there will be more vinyl than that applied to the shoulder of that donkey jacket: Each musical artist is contributing a track to what will become a Yang Li LP. There is an echo in the work of Glenn Martens’s Y/Project of Vivienne Westwood’s “Drunken Tailoring.” However, the distortions achieved by Martens are much more extreme, much more mind-twisting, much more perception-altered: Call it “Acid Tailoring,” maybe. Held in a church, the Oratoire du Louvre, and with a soundtrack by Bizet’s “L’Amour Est un Oiseau Rebelle,” partially performed by Beaker from The Muppets, this was a show in which grandiosity was undercut by humor at every turn. As an ensemble, the looks made up a collection of urban tribes. The apparel assumed by these human tropes was invariably subjected to lovingly violent alteration. The tailored jackets and top coats of Y/Project’s smoothly conventional urban man were disrupted and turned inside on themselves in little explosions centered on the left-side lapel. Chevron stitching on cheesy knits pointed downward past the double-zippered fanny packs to the tightly fitted leggings (this is really happening) below. Faux country wax jackets and hipster workwear jackets were grabbed by an invisible hand at the collar and pulled upward as if the wearer was being ejected for unruly conduct. Some of the womenswear was outstandingly beautiful. So I added to the definition of any savings that “results from a period of economic activity”, the amount of any changes in the total level of wealth that occurred in that economy. And actually not just added the amount of wealth created, but also subtract off the amount of wealth depleted. So, to the definition for savings, I add “wealth created” minus “wealth depleted”. I call this quantity the “net production of wealth”, or simply “net production”.
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