The girlishness and sweetness of those paillette scarves and embroidered shirts were replaced with an almost erotic purity the Kansas City Chiefs 2020 AFC Champions Locker Room Trophy shirt and I love this idea of fetishizing a thing as perfect as it is, unadorned in a simple cotton or loose leather. The clothes were essentials in the most classic sense of menswear twills, tweeds, shirting, sportswear, khaki but oversize or misplaced in their proportion to reveal, say, a bare collarbone in a baby dollish tank, or to accentuate the strangeness of wearing a cropped jacket over a blazer in the same material. Together the looks comprised all the musts of a traditional male wardrobe, recut with the freewheeling spirit of boyhood. But a Prada show is never one-note. The stated reason for this Shanghai show was to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Milan being named a sister city of the Chinese cosmopolis. The reality is that business in China is booming. Over two days of touring the city’s hubs, it was impossible to miss a Prada store or billboard. In reviving its Linea Rossa business, the company has struck gold with a younger, more streetwear-inclined consumer. Perhaps that’s what gave birth to a series of prints of antiquated technology. A roll of film here, a cassette tape there, a ‘50s soda-pop joint milkshake later on all of these pieces appeared as a single graphic or as a grid of many on trendy nylon. As the models walked past an audience clad in last season’s Frankenstein-patterned pieces, you could see the commercial appeal. To be sinister, or sales-minded, though, is not the larger message. Zoom all the way out like, decades of menswear out and this collection could read as a pivotal moment for Prada. For a long time, its menswear shows were about medium-rise straight pant, a button-up polo shirt, and a loose anorak. Where did it go? I look around me quickly, pretty sure I look like a witch at the moment with my crazy mess of a hair. And I spotted it, laying there on the ground underneath the shoes of the merciless, hungry girls. I rushed to take it and looked at it to see that it’s covered with shoe marks all over. I may have survived the battle but it didn’t.. But given the mess that my hair was, I had to put that filthy piece of fabric on my head and withdraw to at least enjoy this piece of pizza… and think of a better way to get breakfast the next day.
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